Category Archives: Hungary

And finally the Christmas markets!

And finally the Christmas markets!
Budapest, Hungary

Budapest, Hungary


The main reason I came here was to see the markets, and I left the major part of my shopping to the last day! I scouted everything out earlier, and it was hard to find what I wanted, but I checked out of the hostel, and went for a stroll down to Vorosmarty ter and St. Stephen’s Basilica. I also went back to the Central Market Hall. As my Budapest card has run out, I am doing this all by foot, and trying to stay warm… More mulled wine! (I am going to go through withdrawal after Christmas!) and more sweets from the market… Lunch was stuffed cabbage (delicious, but massive portion) and then I got presents for the family (honey from acai flowers for dad (delicious), painted eggs for Kathryn, Mom and I, saffron for Mark, and Paprika to share between them).

I went into the Basilica, it is much like the ones in Italy. Full of marble, and very ornate. It is definitely busier in the city on a Saturday. After leaving the Basilica, I chose a different street to walk up, and ended up finding a delicious chocolate shop. I had an orange, cardamom hot chocolate, at the server’s suggestion (they have a list of flavours you can choose from) and then 3 chocolates. The goat cheese dark chocolate was my favourite! The plum was good too, but the champagne one was disappointing.

Then, I made my way to the airport and back to London. Only an hour delay this time.

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Thoroughly enjoying myself!

Thoroughly enjoying myself!
Budapest, Hungary

Budapest, Hungary


After dancing last night, it was a little tough to get up this morning and make my way back across the river into Buda for the Invisible Exhibition. But, boy, can I say it was ever worth it! I was very curious when I discovered the Invisible Exhibition in the brochure. It was a bit expensive, as you need to hire a foreign guide (who can speak English), but I managed to tag onto a group of 6 Brits who were also going in English (you need to book in advance). For any of you who have been to NYC or Toronto and gone to “Dans le Noir” or “Au noir”, you know that there is an interest in Blind Dining. Well, imagine trying to go through a day in the life of someone who is blind. Our tour simulated that, and for the next hour, I was immersed in complete darkness (the kind we get at the cabin when there is no moon or stars). You think you can see your hand waving in front of you, but that is just your brain tricking you. We started by going into an apartment. I am completely lost without my sight. I know that I am a visual learner, but, unless I could feel the wall, I had no sense of direction or space. In the apartment, I could make out items like the fridge, range, sink , sofa etc, mostly because I ran my hands over them or ran into them. There was a piano too. The apartment was ok, as it had a lot of furniture you can feel your way around with. Then we went “outside” (remember, for our safety, this is simulated). The street noise is quite loud. At least (due to the Doppler effect for all you science folk), you can somewhat tell the direction of the traffic. That’s all great, except that I couldn’t even lead myself along the sidewalk. Our guide (who is blind btw) turned me in the right direction, and I managed to cross. On the other side of the street, we stopped at a fruit stand. There were only a few that I couldn’t figure out, but the apple, pineapple and coconut were pretty easy to distinguish based off smell and feel. After that, we didn’t exactly stick with the “typical” day theme, but went to a hunter’s cabin. Inside, I could find the wood burning stove, the furs on the wall (one was shorter, like a deer or beaver or something and the other was fluffier). The kerosene lamp was also easily identifiable. Then we went through the woods, and over a bridge. They have done a wonderful job at making the trees feel realistic. Next stop: a Statue park. I figured out Atlas, as you can feel the globe with a man underneath. The statue of David was a little harder, as I could tell by body parts that it was a man, but had no clue as to who. I would never in a million years have figured out the lion though… One of the girls in the group asked a very interesting question: When you are blind, what are your dreams like? Our guide was sighted as a child, and lost her vision at age 3 (she is probably in her early 20s now). She told us that she couldn’t answer for a “never sighted” person, but for her, she used to dream in images, but now dreams in sounds. She also told us that most blind people will not feel others faces like in the movies, they base their knowledge of who is who again based on sound. Finally, we made our way into a bar. Once again, I was hopelessly lost without a wall to feel, and our guide basically had to seat me in the sofa. We then had the opportunity to buy something, and pay for it (in the dark). I had a small chocolate, and (having been warned beforehand) knew the shape and size of the 100 Ft coin. Another interesting thing: In Canada, we have Braille on our bills, in the UK and Europe, they have different sizes for different values, but in Hungary, all the notes are the same size, with no Braille. Our guide told us that she has a system, keeping different values in different areas of her wallet, but I believe her sister helps her organize it. They also do not have the sound chirp-ers at crosswalks here. I don’t know what you would do if a tram was coming, they are very quiet! This was the end of our intense journey. It would have been really cool to go through again in the light, to see if what our brains visualized was close to what was there. (We also kept saying sorry as a group, because you can’t see each other and we would run into each other).

Anyways, after that experience, I am even more grateful that I can experience this world through my eyes, and hope to keep my sight for a long time!

From here, I stopped at the shopping mall, and was really tempted to buy some shoes, but didn’t have the space to carry them. I did get another one of the chocolate cake balls that are absolutely delicious. I made a huge effort to remember their name, but it is no use! Starts with a K. Has what tastes like kirsch in it (some are quite boozy). Overall they are delicious, a staple of my diet here, along with mulled wine!

Then, as it is cold out, I went to the Szechenyi baths, and soaked for about an hour and a half. There are more than 20 pools to visit, although it was only in the last 30 mins that I found most of them. You can read my review if you like, but it was very nice to relax in the hot water. One old gentleman told me that he has a yearly pass and comes to Szechenyi every week. The outdoor pools are nice, but it was quite frosty to get from the building in to the pool (not like Banff, where you can walk directly in).

I had really wanted to go skating on the giant rink, but they close from 1pm-4pm and there wasn’t enough time 😦 (funny that I want to skate here, when skating is probably my least favourite winter sport at home).

Next stop was the Opera house, for the tour this time. It is magnificent inside. Apparently Franz Josef (Emperor of Austro-Hungarian empire) commissioned it so that he could enjoy opera in Budapest as well as Vienna. Franz Josef only came once, although his wife went all the time. He never came back, because the Hungarian opera house was more beautiful inside than the Austrian one! As the empire was so big, almost all the materials were Hungarian (aside from some of the marble in the Imperial entrance).

The opera house is stunning, and we got to see people practicing, as well as had a mini-concert (2 arias in the main bar). I can not believe how they project their voices!!

A last minute decision, and I had a ticket to La Boheme. This time, it is set in Paris, France, but the opera is done in Italian! This time, I was smarter and read the synopsis beforehand, or I wouldn’t have known what was going on.

Then I tried the hostel pub crawl. We once again didn’t have a ton of luck, we started at Fogas Haz, and it was pretty dead. Next we went to Kuplung, which had a concert on, and I would have gone inside, but not many others wanted to pay the fee (it was Hungarian rap, which sounded good). Then we went to Lokal, which had potential, but was some sort of swing pop music. I was not feeling it… I went back to the hostel, and listened to some dubstep and my own music while I waited for the rest to make it Instanz (Instant, right across from the hostel). The club itself is really neat (Alice in Wonderland theme, with tons of rooms, all different). Even with that many rooms, we had a lot of difficulty finding music we liked. The room we had been in last night was where the music was amazing, except that it was so full, you couldn’t dance, just get shoved by other people. By 2-2:30, we left. We gave it an honest go, but the beats weren’t right.

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Buda Buda Buda

Budapest, Hungary

It is fun to say Buda!

It was another busy and cold day today. I found the bus that took me up to Buda Castle, and then, after getting turned around a couple of times, found the walking tour (also free) standing at the Holy Trinity Column. First fact of the day: Most old towns in Eastern Europe have Trinity columns, erected by survivors of the plague. It is really cold and gray out today… I am wearing several layers, including my wool thermals, but it is biting.

We made our way past St. Matthias Cathedral. The roof (replaced, not original) is of clay, and made in a really neat pattern that I am sure Mom and Patti would like. Behind it, you find the Hilton Hotel. From the front, the Hilton looks quite modern, but if you go around back, they have conserved a courtyard with the original stone from medieval times. Then we walked through Fishermans Bastion. It looks old, but is actually only 150 years old or so. From the top, we had a nice panoramic view of Pest. Luckily, they had heaters on in one of the alcoves. I don’t know how we are going to survive another 2 hours of this… Sadly, I don’t remember a lot of what our guide told us… Much of the Castle area is now protected, so the buildings are under strict codes for any sort of renovation. There is a bit of “sibling” rivalry between Buda and Pest, as originally they were 2 separate towns. Nowadays, if you have money, you live on the Buda side (although it is more like the suburbs). If you want to go out, you need to go to Pest. Another intersting fact: Under the castle is a large cave and tunnel system, originally formed by the geothermal activity, but exploited by the Hungarian as protection and a secret hideaway during wars. Later that afternoon, I was 15m under where I stood this morning. Anyways, we made it to the actual castle, which was heavily destroyed by war. The Germans used this district as a stronghold during the 2nd world war. One of the ladies on the tour was from Louisiana (Shelly I think was her name). After the tour ended, we hung out and went through the National Gallery, with some very interesting art. I am not a huge fan of the Gothic art, it is much too dark for my liking. There were some interesting pieces, going through the ages. We found a cafe for lunch, and then I went to the Hospital in the Rock, while she went on her way.

Hospital in the rock was really neat. It uses the cave system, and was a functional hospital, although has only been used during brief periods of time (especially the 1956 revolution). Under the Soviet regime, it was converted into a nuclear bunker, with equipment and supplies on hand (one time, during the 2nd world war, while the hospital was a secret endeavour, they ran out of supplies, as the larger surface hospital nearby couldn’t bring them any). Now, as a museum, they still have tons of first aid supplies and the old equipment. It is surprising not more people died in here, but they actually have a decent ventilation system. I think my highlight was trying the Air Raid siren! Overall really cool, and you should go!

I made my way down the hill, and found the Invisible exhibition, where I signed up for a tour tomorrow. Then I made my way to the Lukacs baths. It was really nice to get in the hot water after a day of cold. (also free because of the Budapest card πŸ™‚ ). On the way back from the pools, I found a piece of home (sort of!). I walked past a bar called Calgary, complete with the maple leaf. Curious, I went inside, and was immediately hit with the smell of incense. This is considered an Antik bar, and is rightly named so. It has the feel of an old lady’s sitting room. I had a mulled wine (my drink here in Budapest) and warmed up. I guess the lady who owns the bar opened it after the 88 Olympics in Calgary, as she loved them so much!

In the evening, I went on the River Cruise organized through the hostel. We sailed along the river, under many of the famous bridges, looking at everything all lit up. Afterwards, we headed to Instanz, a club with TONS of different rooms (almost like a maze) located across the street. Instanz is considered the Alice in Wonderland club (for it’s decoration). Overall a good night!

 

Pest (yes, it is pronounced [p-e-sh-t]

Pest (yes, it is pronounced [p-e-sh-t]
Budapest, Hungary

Budapest, Hungary


Once again, I had another busy day! Many of the things I saw were from the outside, so they will reappear in further entries. (interesting facts are in bold)

As I had issues sleeping last night, my original plan of getting up at a reasonable hour and making it to the Buda tour was scrapped. Will have to do it tomorrow. Anyways, I decided that today would be spent on the Pest side (where I am staying). Turns out, my hostel is extremely close to the Opera house. While stuck in the airport yesterday, the older ladies I was talking to got the idea stuck in my head that I wanted to go to the Opera. When I got to the Opera House, they have all the Nutcracker ballet items out front! It would be so cool to see the Ballet here too!

Hmm. Just found out the ticket prices for the ballet, not going to happen. However, Carmen is playing tonight, and tickets are pretty cheap (plus I like the music from Carmen). I treated myself to a nice balcony seat, in a box (3 seat in front, 3 behind). It was 3600 Ft, which works out to around 15$ CAD. They were not doing the Opera house tours today, so I will have to come back again to actually see the inside (Carmen is playing at the Erkel Theatre). Before leaving, I got my picture taken on the Sleigh (prop) from Nutcracker.

2.1389100057.sleigh-from-the-nutcracker

I was aiming to get to the Oktagon station to catch the metro (not realizing there is a station directly outside the opera house…) but ended up going the wrong direction down Andrassy Way. Without realizing what I was passing, I ended up walking right past St. Stephen’s Basilica. Interesting thing: The Basilica and the Parliament building are the exact same height (96m) and the tallest buildings in Pest. The significance is that State and Church have equal power, and they are 96m based off the founding of Budapest in 896 AD.

I finally found a station, and made my way to the Hungarian National Museum (I am trying to get as much as possible from my Budapest City card). With the card, the museum is free. There was a lot to see, as it went through the history of different sieges, settlements, policies since St. Stephen in the year 1000. He was their first King, and is always represented by a double cross (I forget the significance though). After that, it was lunch time, so I passed another small market (they are basically set up with mulled wine, sweets, food, and gifts in any square around the city). I decided not to eat there, thinking it was a bit pricey, and went to the Central Market Hall. If you do not like crowds, come during the week. The place was empty! I found hot food upstairs (turns out it was more expensive, oh well). I had grilled sausage. So tasty! I ended up going back to the little market to get some mulled wine before going to Deak Ferenc Ter to meet the group going on the free Pest walking tour.

I got there just in time, and we headed out first to see the Great Synagogue (from the outside). From there, we took the metro up to Heroe’s square. It is interesting to see the different ends of Andrassy Way. By heroe’s square, it is like the Blvds in Paris, wide, treed, big houses. In the town centre, it is much smaller. There is so much history in this city! Heroe’s square showcases St. Stephen, with the 7 tribes that initially came here from Asia. On each side, there are 6 kings, with reliefs showing their most important moments. The last 3 kings are a recent addition, as they have now replaced the Russian figures that stood there during the Soviet Regime.

As you pass through Heroe’s square, on the other side is a large ice rink, with Vajdahunyad Castle overlooking it. The castle is really neat. It is not as old as it looks, and was built for an expo of sorts, but then never taken down. Each section of the Castle depicts a different architectural style, from Medieval, neo-gothic, Baroque (under the Austro-Hungarian dynasty), Transylvanian (turns out Dracula is actually Hungarian!) etc. I must say, I do like the Baroque style. It is very pretty. A quick trip to check out the Szechenyi Baths, and then we went back underground to get to the Opera house. Another interesting fact: Budapest has the oldest underground system in Continental Europe!(photos are in slideshow format, so don’t forget to scroll through!!)

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We finished up at the Basilica. More trivial facts: Many films are shot in Budapest, as it is cheaper than other European countries. One of the most recent was the latest Die Hard movie, set in Moscow. (They changed all the street signs to Russian).

2.1389100057.beautiful-sunset
Beautiful sunset

I went back quickly to change and then headed off to the Erkel theatre by tram. The Erkel theatre is also not in a very well lit area, and the surroundings seem a bit run down… I walked along the main street, just so that there was light. Inside the theatre, I found my seat. The theatre is quite empty, and it turns out that my view would have been just fine even with the cheapest tickets. A Swedish lady was sat beside me, we were the only 2 in our box for 6. As she has seen the opera before, she was explaining some things to me (one disadvantage of seeing an opera in a foreign country is that the translations above are not comprehensible, as Candice and I discovered several years ago in Prague!) Even as I write this, I am singing the songs in my head and thinking of my siblings (particularly Beakers version http://youtu.be/UHphaS4aPX0) ! I must say, it was funny to see Carmen set in Spain, but sung in French…

Budapest Day 1 (sorry no interesting title)

 

Budapest Day 1 (sorry no interesting title)
Budapest, Hungary

Budapest, Hungary


The day did not start well. I got on one of the first tubes out to get to Stansted, and then I ended up in the slowest line to get my passport check (because I am not an EU citizen). Seriously, the guy at the desk was SO SLOW! Obviously missed his morning coffee!

Anyways, I got through all of that, and as we were meant to be boarding our plane, the fog became so thick, that you couldn’t see anything out of the window. ALL flights were delayed. I don’t know how many times they announced that they were sorry for the delays, and would announce more in 20 mins… Our gates changed, but one good thing about Ryanair, is that when it comes to actually getting people on the plane and leaving the ground, they can get it done quick.

We finally made it to Budapest, 4 hrs later than planned, just in time for the sun to go down. No sightseeing today! But at least the ladies I was talking to in the airport made their opera show! They were very helpful, letting me sift through their guide books, and telling me things I should see/do.

I must say, I absolutely love the feeling of not knowing where exactly you are going when you travel. It was so exciting to watch the run down metro arrive, and then get on, without knowing the language! I really need to work on transferring my joy of travel into everyday life.

I was a little sketched out when I finally found the hostel… When you first walk in, it looks a bit derelict. The courtyard is nothing but dirt. The hostel itself, was fine, it was just the first impression. Inside is quite modernized, with bright colours, a dining area, kitchen, games room and tv room. (It also helps that it was less than 5 pounds a night). The hostel has a real live swedish chef, who was making Hungarian Potato casserole for dinner. I ended up waiting for it, which was supposed to be ready by 7, and wasn’t ready until after 8 😦 Then, I went with Brad, a young american (looks like he’s 22-23 but just turned 18) to find the Christmas markets. Exploring the city for the first time in the dark had me feeling quite lost. We found a small market, but as it was nearing 10pm, most things were starting to close. We did end up finding the larger market in Vorosmarty ter, and I had white mulled wine. It was delicious! The spices were different, more fruity than the red mulled wine. We walked back through the Jewish quarter, past several bars and pubs. I even found a country bar, owned by a former olympic athlete. Interesting thing: there was absolutely no sign on the building. It looks just like a house, until someone opens the door.

We made it back to the hostel for 10pm, as they were starting the pub crawl. I wasn’t planning on going, as I didn’t really sleep much last night, and was exhausted, but since people were outside, I went with them. I was joined in my non-drinking by Sam, a Torontonian, and we watched the futbol match (Man U vs Ukraine team). From there, the night wasn’t very successful, as we tried a couple bars that were closed. Finally we ended up at Szimpla, a ruin bar. Ruin bars were originally temporary bars set up for people after the the Soviet regime fell, in old buildings, that had been destroyed. Eventually they made them permanent structures, and they are full of “antiques” and “junkyard treasures”. Basically, anything that people are getting rid of, they take and use, so each chair is pretty different. There is a dentist chair, a tub converted into a couch, old cinema chairs. They even have a film playing in the outdoor courtyard.

After that, I went home. I just wasn’t feeling the night, I was so tired. It was only midnight! I tried to go to sleep, but the group of Spaniards in the hostel were SO LOUD. I am not sure how I am going to survive 3 more nights here… I may finally be getting too old to stay in hostels.